![]() Put everything back together and give it a try. Also check for any obvious leaks in the system at this time.ĥ. The piston/lever should move about an inch or so in each direction indicating that it is operating properly. If you are satisfied that the air is gone, watch the action of the clutch slave cylinder shaft pushing against the clutch lever when the helper pushes the clutch pedal down. It should take no more than a 5 or 6 pumps of the clutch pedal to clear out the air from the line if done properly.Ĥ. Keep the reservoir filled as necessary during this procedure to make sure no additional air gets into the system while you are bleeding the system. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have a clear stream of fluid (no air bubbles) coming out of the bleed screw when the helper presses the clutch pedal. Have the helper then slowly release the clutch pedal until it is all the way back up.ģ. When the clutch pedal is all the way down, close (tighten) the bleed screw. You should see/hear fluid and/or air bubbles coming out of the hole in the bleed screw as the pedal is being depressed.Ģ. Once the screw is loose, have the helper slowly press down on the clutch pedal and hold it down on the floor. With a helper in the driver seat, loosen the slave cylinder bleed screw (1/4 turn should be enough). Once you locate the slave cylinder on the transmission and have your tools and so forth ready, here is how to bleed the system:ġ. NOTE: one thing I like to do is use a short piece of clear vinyl hose that will fit onto the bleed screw outlet (above the hex head) so that I can route the fluid that will come out away from my hands and into a container for proper disposal later. In any case, it "should" be fairly easy to locate with a little detective effort. For my setup, it easy to get to if I remove the plastic air intake assembly that connects to the air filter box (and I can reach it from above. The bleeder screw may or may not have a little rubber cap on it that needs to be removed. It may be easier to see from under the front of the vehicle (may need to remove a plastic air dam section under the driver side bumper). On mine, it is located where the transmission is bolted to the engine, near the front engine mount between the engine and radiator. Next, you need to locate the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure about yours before adding fluid. In my situation, that is DOT 3 brake fluid. With that being said, first make sure that the reservoir is topped off with the appropriate fluid. If your vehicle has a stand alone clutch fluid reservoir (separate from the brake system), then forget about the brake warning in this paragraph, except that you still have a leak issue somewhere in the clutch fluid system. ![]() While you may be able to get your clutch to work with these instructions, your brakes may suffer (be really spongy) or fail if there is indeed air in those lines as well. The brake fluid, which operates the clutch on my car as well, does not just evaporate, there is something funny going on there that seriously needs to be looked at. ![]() That means that you have more than one issue to deal with. the fluid reservoir is actually the BRAKE master cylinder and not a separate clutch fluid reservoir, and it was empty, then you most likely have air in your brake system too (as well as a possible leak in the brake lines, etc.). If your fluid routing setup is the same as mine, i.e. Now, before I go any further, a word of caution here. This bleeder screw looks similar to a regular screw except it has a hole in it's center and a hex head where you loosen/tighten it with an appropriate sized wrench (6 or 7 mm, I think.) On top of this slave cylinder is a small bleeder screw near where the fluid line connects to it. From there, fluid is routed down to the clutch "slave" cylinder (via a small metal line) next to the transmission bell housing (where the clutch is behind the engine). There is a hose that comes off of the right side of the container (the reservoir) and goes to the clutch master cylinder located to the right and just below the Brake fluid reservoir. Other members here may be able to post some pics for you later or provide more accurate info.įirst off, the container for the clutch fluid on mine is actually the brake master cylinder. Sorry, but I don't have any photos to help you, so I will try to describe the procedure as straightforward as possible. I replaced my clutch a couple of years ago and went through the bleeding process of the clutch slave cylinder afterwards. Although some things are/may be different between our vehicles and I am working off off memory here, hopefully, this will be enough to help.
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